Embracing Naturalness | Transitioning through one filmmaker's eyes

Yesterday the New York Times published the op-doc (opinion documentary) of British-Nigerian filmmaker, writer and broadcast journalist, Zina Saro-Wiwa. Zina might be better known for the film, 'This is My Africa' which was telecast earlier this year in the US on HBO. This latest contribution is entitled, 'Black Women's Transitions to Natural Hair'. 

Below is a photo of Zina Saro-Wiwa as well as the link to the article on the NY Times page: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/01/opinion/black-women-and-natural-hair.html?smid=pl-share

My Observations

I, for one, applaud the filmmaker's candidness. She unmasked herself for the camera and the public as she shared her own story. As she originally said, it was not her intention to be a part of the documentary. But as things progressed, it would seem that her desire to be totally honest about her own struggle had propelled her to take a stand and to step away from her usual braided hairstyle (which she has done for about 20 years). So strong was her love affair with her natural tresses, that her initial experiment of a few weeks with natural hair has now turned into 7 months. Zina spoke of her awareness of needing to change her lifestyle on a whole as her transition could not now be limited to her hair alone. And with this point I could not agree more.

The interviewees themselves are also to be complimented for sharing their story. Nevertheless, this film struck an even deeper chord with me. As I listened, she touched on several commentaries which have reverberated across the natural hair community:

1. Being beautiful with natural hair and public stereotyping
2. Self-acceptance and lifestyle changes
3. Learning to manage natural hair when transitioning and after
4. The increasing number of black women who are transitioning in the US/the silent revolution
5. Black pop-culture icons still with permed hair, wigs and weaves
6. Transitioning to natural = reclaiming one's political voice

As the filmmaker is prepped for her shave and about to get going, I could not help but pause when Zina exclaims, '...I can just see myself getting uglier..."; and, '...do I finally look gorgeous?' But why? Because you are suddenly revealing those lovely full lips? No more hair to tuck behind the ears or draw another's gaze upward and away from your gorgeous cheekbones? Girl, behave!! You are beautiful the way you are!!!

I will not go over verbatim what Zina shared in her video but I want to encourage you to watch it. At the end of the day it is undeniable that more and more black women are embracing their natural hair, resulting in the decline of chemical relaxer sales. Is it a fad? For every last woman who has transitioned, I doubt. I can only speak of life here in Barbados and in many cases it is not about just getting a look. Many women have experienced serious damage caused by chemical straighteners. It has to be about personal choice. About what YOU want for YOU. 

I do agree with Zina's point though, and that is that transitioning can be seen as making a political statement. Whether we wish to endorse it or not, the scissors snipping away those permed ends does symbolize a cut of the ties that bind us to the negative stereotypes; the being '...ungroomed and unedcated' stereotyping that has dogged us for many generations. Those changes start with altering our own mindsets to being more positive. 

No-one is asking us to tread with history tied to our backs into the present. Contemporary life is informed by our past. Our history has shaped us, true, but WE get to choose how we will use those events of our past to order a better life in the HERE AND NOW. Embracing our naturalness is a firm stand of personal affirmation and ethnic solidarity. It's about being black. 

Love it or leave it.

So...what's a POMADE?

Other than really loving the sound of the word, I never really explored the real deal behind a POMADE until becoming natural and getting a natural education. 

Murray's Pomade has been around since 1925

Many of the slick Rockabilly hairstyles of the 30s to 60s were created using some form of pomade. Generally speaking, most pomades back then were made using heavy petroleum, mineral oil and wax. And given the density of petroleum, they really made for a good hold and the styles were more dramatic. Contemporary brands of pomades tend to be more naturally scented and their bases can be of water or more natural wax. That is not to say that they no longer contain petroleum at all. 

When we were growing up my brother also used Softsheen-Carson's Sportin' Waves pomade to achieve his 360 waves. I am sure that someone out there knows just what I am talking about.


Time to simplify
So to make things a little clearer if you are still unsure of what is a pomade, here are just a few tips that I have collected from different sources including some product manufacturers. 

A POMADE:

• is generally a wax-based hair product as some may contain more oil than wax; others still are water-based or creme-based
• is made up of waxy ingredients like beeswax, castor oil, organic coconut oil, lanolin or petroleum; and essential or carrier oils (eg. jojoba, safflower)
• is used to tame unruly hair, make short spiky hairdo's and/or keep hair slicked back
• makes hair shiny
• ought to be used sparingly as it can be very difficult to wash out
• works best on clean, dry hair
• does not have in alcohol like hair gels do, so will not dry the hair; it is versatile and makes hair more manageable

For styles on short hair:

• it is suggested taking a very small amount and rubbing it into hands, then your running hands through your hair 
• Personally, I would take an extra 2-3 minutes and maybe defining your coils by twirling small portions of your hair between your fingers 

For styles on longer hair:

• use the pomade to stretch your curls for a sexy ponytail, bun or updo

Other information:

• some manufacturers also target the locked community by making products versatile enough that can be used to retwist locs
• an increasing number of pomades are being made FREE of parabens, sulfates, silicones, phtalates and other ingredients which many naturals simply do not wish to use
• some pomades also claim to moisturize the hair

Pomade choices

If you are looking for a pomade there are many, many choices on the market now. It might be easy for me to say pick one and try it, but you know the ingredients that you prefer in your products and the texture of your hair. And you will also take into consideration the look or style you are trying to create.

*For Barbadian readers: Not all of these products are sold here. But you should still check the beauty supply stores to verify or if possible purchase online (or when you travel).

Carol's Daughter Macadamia 

Redken Water-based pomade

Sweet Georgia Water-based pomade

Smooth N' Shine pomade

Alterna Hemp Organics
Water-based

American Crew's Men Pomade
Water-based

Hamadi Shea Pomade

Original Moxy's Hair Bling

Darcy's Botanicals

Pantene Texture and Shine

Oyin Handmade

Kinky-Curly Gloss Pomade

Pricing sources:

Murray's Pomade

Oyin Handmade

Carol's Daughter

Curl Mart

Drugstore

Do you use hair pomades? Why and when? And, what has your experience been like? I'm looking for reviews on any of the products above, so please submit your personal review to naturaleza246@gmail.com. Or, you can place it in the comment box below.

My next assignment: To decipher what is 'hair clay'. Do you know? So far, I don't see any great difference between the pomade (whether wax or water based) and the clay. But, if I see more definitive information I will do an article. If you can shed some light on it, please do.

Thankies!

Quick Tips ~ Tamanu Oil

Properties to heal and restore naturally

There is so much to share about his little but incredible fruit. I hope you have a pencil and notebook ready!!

Although gaining greater popularity in the Western world a couple years ago thanks to one of Dr. Oz's shows, Tamanu oil (or Kamani oil) is a traditional salve and remedy in Southeast Asia and Polynesia. The tree grows rather freely along the sandy beaches in many of the countries in those regions. Tamanu oil is extracted via coldpress method from the nut of the Tamanu Tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) and the liquid itself is greenish-yellow in colour, very similar to olive oil. Its lovely white blossoms are known for giving off a sweet aroma!

The Tamanu Tree showing some ripened fruit (yellow)

Interesting info on Tamanu oil 

• It's high in Oleic and Linoleic fatty acids
• Oleic fatty acids repair damaged skin cells and tissue, reduces the inflammation of joints
• Studies show that Linoleic acids form a healthy skin barrier to protect against toxins, bacteria, germs and the like. The acids also become engaged in the fight against acne and dermatitis and act as an anti-inflammatory. They soothe the itchy, scaly areas of skin
• This oil fosters skin and cell regeneration after bruises and burns
• It also nourishes and moisturizes dry skin
• It's analgesic properties mean it is able to help in easing arthritic pains, ligament damage
• Can also be used on cats and dogs

(Source)

What is Tamanu oil used for?

With the facts above outlining some of the oil's properties, it should be easier to understand why Tamanu oil works the way it does. Traditionally, Kamani oil is known to soothe and heal (among other things):

• neuralgia, shingles, joint pains and arthritis, rheumatism, gout, ringworms

In present day, it is used to treat such conditions as:

• acne, eczema, psoriasis, age spots
• reduces swelling
• cuts, bruises and severe burns
• rashes including diaper rashes on babies and infants
• insect bites

Tamanu oil is quickly and easily absorbed into the skin as it penetrates all three of its layers. It is advised to first test the oil on a small area of skin before applying to larger areas. In addition, try to use 100% pure Tamanu oil when treating skin conditions like age spots.

With the new knowledge acquired about this incredible gift from nature, be sure to check the ingredients of your skin care products to see if you are benefiting from Tamanu oil. It surely is one oil worth having in the medicine cabinet or your home's first aid kit.

Looking forward to reading your feedback!!

Resources

California Academy of Health

The Buzz ~ Quick Tips: It's all about the Almond

(Source)

I have been coming across Sweet Almond oil as an ingredient in some brands of hair care daily moisturizers and oils. It features in the Mega Care Grapeseed oil which I bought recently. Sweet Almond oil is a carrier oil and therefore works well with an essential oil of your choice. 

So, what's in an Almond?
The Almond is called the wonder nut due to its nutritional value. Almonds are packed with vitamins, antioxidants and minerals. It is an effective health building food.

Mega Care Grape seed oil and important information about Grape seed oil

(Source)

This is not a review :) Would not even call it a mini-haul.

I found out about this line of hair oils from Dionne (she has been featured before on this blog and contributes photos from time to time). She bought them when she traveled to the US last December. I have to say thank you to her for sending me in the right direction.

The Mega Care line of oils is also sold here in Barbados at BeCool Hair Supplies on Swan Street. It is located on lower Swan Street, opposite Abed's. They had just 3 varieties of oil in stock: Tea Tree, Carrot and Grape seed. Each is 1.5 Fl. Oz for BDS$7.99. Maybe they are sold somewhere else at a slightly more affordable price, and, with the complete range of oils.

Mega Care's Grape seed oil is not 100% Grape seed oil. It also contains:

Grape seed oil, Wheatgerm oil, Sweet Almond oil, Sunflower oil, Castor oil, Olive oil, Vitamin E (Tocopherol), fragrance. So your hair and scalp receives plenty goodness from this one tube of oil.

I bought the Grape seed oil as I had been doing some reading on its properties. Tea Tree oil is just too harsh on my scalp so it made no sense buying that.

I know that Dionne had others from the range and she mixed to make her own concoction.

If you don't know about the goodness of Grape seed oil, here are some general important things to keep in mind when trying to decide which oils might be best on your hair and skin:

• Grape seed oil is made via the cold-press method
• It is a lightweight, colourless and odorless oil. Being lightweight, it is quickly absorbed in the hair shaft, scalp and skin
• Is rich in minerals, vitamins, antioxidants. Is an excellent source of Linoleic Acid. Linoleic Acid is an essential fatty acid. A serious deficiency in LA can lead to dry, poorly looking skin; hair issues, and slowly healing cuts and wounds
• Promotes hair growth, nourishes and strengthens hair
• Many cosmetic and personal care companies use Grape seed oil in the production of facial and body moisturizers, massage oils, hair moisturizers, and even in sunblock products 
• Also used in cooking, as a salad dressing or marinade
• Studies suggest a link between the oil's properties and it's benefits in treating acne, dry and itchy skin, chapped lips, wrinkled skin/aging, dandruff, hair loss, stretch marks and varicose veins, just to name a few
• Grape seed oil and extract are to be found in capsule form, too. But, they must be used consistently over a period time
• To treat acne or dermatitis, try applying Grape seed oil to the affected area(s) at 2-3 times daily
• Biochemical research has shown that Grape seed oil is high in flavanoids which remove free radicals and promote the restoration of collagen. This helps skin to feel firm and minimize the appearance of tissue damage
• Use Grape seed oil as a hot oil treatment. As a carrier oil, you can also add a few drops of essential oils when warming the Grape seed oil. Grape seed oil (on its own) as a hot oil treatment is said to heal split ends and make hair shiny

There is quite a bit of information on Grape seed oil. I am so happy that you chose this one to use and share!

I would definitely advise you to put Grape seed oil on your shopping list. It is just packed with so many properties that can do a body good!

Although the Mega Care brand does mix its Grape seed oil with other essential oils, I am still very open to trying 100% pure Grape seed oil. But so far, I am liking how it feels. It is indeed very light. It's only been two days since I started, so I have a ways to go before I can do a comprehensive post/review.

By the way, have you ever tried the Mega Care brand range of oils?

(Source)

Which one is your favourite?

The Buzz ~ Quick Tips on Parsley

(Source)

Do you know pass over this green leafy herb as just a mere garnish on your plate or in your salad? Parsley is said to be one of the most potent natural herbs known to mankind. 

Parsley is said to be (or can be):

• an excellent source of Vitamin K. Vitamin K is found in green leafy veggies and is needed for proper bone formation. It also helps to prevent our arteries from being hardened due to the build up of excess calcium salts (calcification) and it allows our blood to clot as it should. Low levels of Vitamin K have also been linked to developing osteoporosis.
• high in flavanoids. Flavanoids are powerful antioxidants that fight against aging and prevent disease.
• rich in folic acid. 
• high in Vitamins A and C. Both of these vital nutrients are antioxidants that destroy free radicals in our bodies. Vitamin C is good for the sustained health of our eyes, hair and teeth.
• used by many as a diuretic when seeking to lose weight.
• an agent in regulating menstrual cycle and relieving the cramps and pain we experience from time to time.
• good for treating most urinary and kidney ailments.
• a chemo-protective food in that, it can help to neutralize particular kinds or carcinogens. It contains the flavanoid - lutelolin.
• an important part of traditional Chinese medicine. Parsley tea is recommended to lower high blood pressure and improve blood circulation.
• used to treat insect bites, inflammation.
• traditionally used as a hair tonic and massaged directly onto the scalp to stimulate hair growth.
• a good way to promote hair shine (and colour because of its copper content) when applied to the scalp or eaten a large and consistent quantities in the diet. 

Here is a recipe for parsley tea, one way of getting all the nutrition present in this herb.

If you have an infusion basket, you may place the Parsley into that if you wish:

1 cup boiling water

2 tbs fresh parsley, chopped or 1 1/2 tbs dried 

Place the chopped herb into the cup of boiled water. Let it steep for 5 to 10 minutes.

I also found a very brief take on parsley and its effect on the scalp. But given the benefits it has on our overall health, I can see how it might also have positive effects on hair. It suggested that parsley seeds disinfected the scalp and was a treatment for head lice. To do this, you must first pass the seeds through a grinder and apply the seeds directly to the scalp. If you do keep in this concoction overnight, dust it out with a brush.

Another source suggests making a paste from boiled parsley by blending the boiled liquid and leaves together. Its purpose? To heal scalp problems and balance the sebaceous glands. This parsley conditioner - as they call it - is applied the same way your would henna. Leave the paste on for an hour or so then rinse as you would your normal conditioner. 

Wow! Information and simple things that you can do to make a difference to your overall health.

Have you had your Parsley today?

Additional resources: 

Superfoods - Parsley for Cancer, Arthritis and a Healthy heart

Superfoods - Parsley juice for liver cleansing

Livestrong - Parsley

The Buzz ~ Quick tips about Castor Oil for hair care

Bought this small bottle from Knight's Pharmacy, Warrens.

It's just about 3 weeks since I began using Castor Oil on my locs, primarily along the hairline. I do also rub the oil onto on my scalp between the parts and on areas that feel itchy. I like the sheen it gives. I do not over apply given that the oil is so concentrated, a little goes a long way. It is also very sticky. The scent is bland, at least that is best way I can describe it.

For my daughter's hair, I apply to the temple areas primarily. Then, I put one drop on my hands, rub together and then I lightly run my hands onto her hair (covering even down to the ends sometimes), massaging into her scalp and temples. I do that step especially after her weekly washes. Then, I dry and twist. Her hair is shinier, not as frizzy and a bit softer. But, I might also have to attribute these changes to the Shea Moisture Coconut and Hibiscus Shampoo which I have been using since the beginning of the year. Not sure, but I like what I have been seeing.

********************************************************************************

Castor oil properties: germicide and fungicide

Castor oil:

• is made from the seeds of the Castor plant
• contains Ricinoleic acid which is known to inhibit the growth of bacteria
• promotes hair growth. It has properties which are useful in the fight against hair loss
• works to prevent dry scalp
• is a humectant. This means that it helps your hair to retain moisture, whereby eliminating frizziness




The Heritage Brand of Essential oils
is sold here in Barbados. See Jenn's. Or check
Nature's Discount or JNC 

• aids in making hair thicker and stronger

But these points are nothing new. Many older women, those of my Granny's era especially, have long recommended Castor oil to thicken the weak areas of the hairline and other thinning spots.

I am not ready as yet to mix my Castor oil with any other essential oil. But, you may use Castor oil with Sweet Almond oil. Or for a scalp treatment, trying mixing with Jojoba oil. But these other EO's are said to work well with Castor oil to stimulate the follicles and encourage hair repair and growth:

• Rosemary, Grape Seed, Lavender, Cedarwood oils

For deep conditioning purposes:

• evenly distribute Castor oil onto your scalp 
• put on a plastic cap and leave on for 10 - 20 minutes
• apply heat if you so desire
• then, remove cap and rinse THOROUGHLY 

When using this oil, remember to distribute evenly to the scalp because it is so thick.

Using the refined type oil seems to work better. In its purest form, Castor is richer, darker in colour. The one I have purchased is lighter in colour, but you will read why soon. 

On a final note

I have actually been trying to source the Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor oil or Sunny Isle Jamaican Black Castor oil. But I am yet to find either here in Barbados. Actually, I cannot find any brand of black Castor oil! From reading many, many blog posts and websites, it seems that many women who have been trying to heal their thinning and/or breaking hair, are turning to Jamaican Black Castor oil. And, they are singing its praises. Personally, I believe that it has to do with the fact that the oil used by these companies (or any other company that produces black castor oil) is closest to its purest form, hence the nutrients remain mostly untouched. And, when mixed with some of the other essential oils, you end with a wicked combination of hair goodness!

Tropic Isle Living
Jamaican Black Castor oil

Sunny Isle
Jamaican Black Castor

The Buzz ~ Quick Tips about Argan Oil

I first read about Moroccan Argan Oil on a blog post from Chris, of the Afro-Pean Queen blog. And since then, I have been seeing an increase of products on local shelves claiming to have this very same Argan Oil as an ingredient. So, I did some reading and compiled some facts.

Argan Oil facts

• Is made from the nut of the Argan Tree
• The tree is found primarily in Morocco
• It is said to be one of the rarest and most expensive oils in the world
• Traditionally, women from the Berber community would press the Argan nuts to produce the oil; quite a labour intensive job
• It has a high percentage of Omega-6 and Omega-9 fatty acids, Phelnols and Vitamin E

Argan Oil benefits on Skin

• Due to the high percentage of Vitamin E, Argan Oil has been proven to be excellent at healing scars and preventing sunburn
• It is also considered an effective anti-aging agent by working to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and stretch marks. It also aids in keeping the skin hydrated 
• In addition to healing scared skin, it is reputed to help soothe dry eczema
• The unsaturated fatty acids present in the oil are said to be an agent in keeping skin moisturized and reducing joint stiffness, as well
• Protects the skin and the hair from harmful UV hairs

Argan Oil benefits on Hair

• Argan Oil has properties similar to Jojoba Oil, in that both oils are great at moisturizing dry, brittle hair
• It is goes deep into the hair shaft and improves the hair's elasticity
• The antioxidants of this oil strengthens the protein bonding structures of the hair and repairs damaged ends 
• Great for providing shine
• Less likely to cause buildup as it is relatively a very light-weight oil and non-greasy
• Promotes scalp care to promote hair growth

Links to more information:

Essence of Argan Reviews (Hair)

Essence of Argan Reviews (Skin and Face)

Organic Argan (General overview)

I am yet to source this oil in Barbados. I am thinking that I may have to purchase it online instead. Will think it through some more.

Do you use organic Argan Oil? Or, have you used any organic products which has Argan Oil in it? What are your thoughts? What is it as effective as they say?

Companies named in 'Organic' mislabeling lawsuit ~ Link Love from NaturalReview

Source: advancedhairgear.com

I came across a very interesting article on the natural lifestyle site - NaturalReview. This site is chalked full of extremely interesting and very pertinent lifestyle information to help improve your way of life, generally speaking.

I have placed the links to the articles at the bottom of this post.

In this eye-opening article (published since mid-2011), the Center for Environmental Health has posted a list of hair care product manufacturers which are being sued by other companies for mislabeling their products as 'ORGANIC'.

Mislabeling products is something that I would have dealt with very lightly in a much older post. It is an issue that I feel strongly about. You see, I am one who tries to purchase only hair care products which are organic or at least free of most of the harmful chemicals and other substances. And that is difficult as it is here in Barbados. It bothers me that dishonest companies would play on the sentiments of hard-working consumers who are doing their part in making the planet a greener place. And I am not upset solely because I wish to do my part, but for all others out there who are trying to do the same. And some of these products are at times astronomically priced!! 

Here is the list of the companies with only a few of their products which the Center has identified as having misleading product information. Some of these companies may have more than these products which have allegedly been mislabled:

Advantage Research Laboratories, Inc./Murray’s Worldwide, Inc.: Parnevu T-Tree No Lye Conditioning Relaxer System

Aubrey Organics, Inc: Collagen & Almond Enriching Moisturizing Lotion

Beauty Without Cruelty/Lotus Brands, Inc: Organic Aromatherapy Facial Cleanser

Boots Retail USA Inc: Boots Amazon Forest Brazil Nut & Vanilla Body Wash

California Inside & Out, Inc: Out of Africa Handwash Tea Tree with Essential Oil

Colomer U.S.A.: Crème of Nature Kiwi & Citrus Ultra Moisturizing Shampoo

Cosway Company, Inc/Head Organics Company: Clearly Head Conditioner

Curls, LLC: Curlicious Curls Cleansing Cream Organic Shampoo

derma e® Natural Bodycare/Stearns Products, Inc: Psorzema Body Wash

Hain Celestial Group: Jason Thin-to-Thick Conditioner and Baby Avalon Organics Silky Cornstarch Baby Powder

House of Cheatham, Inc: Organics by Africa’s Best Hair Mayonnaise

International Trade Routes of New York, Inc/Laboratorios Phergal: Naturtint Green Technologies Permanent Hair Colorant

Kinky-Curly Hair Care: Kinky-Curly Spiral Spritz

Kiss My Face Corporation: Hold Up Styling Mousse

Lafe’s Natural BodyCare/Lafe T. Larson, Inc: Deodorant Stone With Holder

Morrocco Method, Inc: Euro Organic Oil Simply Pure Hair & Scalp Therapy

Namasté Laboratories: Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Replenishing Pak

Nature’s Baby Products, Inc: Nature’s Baby ORGANICS Shampoo & Body Wash in Vanilla-Tangerine Scent or Lavender-Chamomile Scent           

Nubian Heritage Group/Sundial Group LLC: Coconut & Papaya with Vanilla Bean Extract Body Wash

Nutrition Resource, Inc. dba NutriBiotic: NutriBiotic Everyday Clean Conditioner Botanical Blend

Rainbow Research Corporation: Rainbow Baby Oh Baby Unscented Organic Herbal Shampoo

Renpure, L.L.C: Renpure Organics I Love My Hair! Body and Shine Shampoo

Strength of Nature Global, LLC: Elasta QP Intense Fortifying Hair Conditioning Treatment

Sundial Brands/Sundial Group LLC: Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo

The Himalaya Drug Company: Organique by Himalaya Toothpaste

Todd Christopher International, Inc/Vogue International: Hydrating Teatree Mint Conditioner 

Quite frankly, I hope they are made to answer to these charges and stay away from doing it in the future. When a consumer reposes their faith in a company based on what their label says, it ought not to be taken lightly. 


What is quite disturbing is seeing the SHEA MOISTURE ORGANIC RAW SHEA BUTTER MOISTURE RETENTION SHAMPOO on the list! That is the shampoo I swear by. I will still use it, as it works. But, I would like to know what ingredient is there in that shampoo that is not 'organic'; whereby making the company's claims null and void. There in lies my concern. Either it is, or it is not. There are a few other companies listed whose products I have used before but not the exact product listed above.


What do you think? Leave us a comment!

Here is the link to the post as it appears on NaturalReview - ORGANIC Mislabeling

Follow this link to the see it on CEH.ORG - Mislabeling lawsuit